Sunday, 20 April 2008

Portuguese Forts in Asia 3: Lautem

You know, I talk to lot of people at parties about Portuguese forts in Asia, and they let me go on and on (usually in another room) without asking the obvious question: which is my favourite?
Well, I can't claim to have seen them all. The mysteries of Solor, Alor, Diu, Daman, Malacca (....shamefully) and various enclaves on the Sri Lankan coast still await me. But I have scoured Goa, Macau and East Timor for fortalezas. And Portugal itself - though strictly outside my purview - does provide incomparable period context.
It's not easy to decide - is it Reis Magos in Goa? Embedded in thick jungle, overlooking Panjim? The mysterious Maubara -(of Dutch construction, or Portuguese?). Maubisse, above the clouds?





























No, I think we'll have to go with the furthest branch from the tree: Lautem. The easternmost fort in the Portuguese colonial empire. No fort so amply demonstrates the dual character of the Portuguese coastal fort in Timor. To the sea, warding off the Dutch; to the interior, the periodic uprisings of the Timorese kingdoms. A road runs through the fort, dividing the twin functions. Ok, so its not in the best nick - but it has atmosphere to burn. And Japanese WW2 pillboxes nearby, a legacy of yet another invader.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi,

Saw the 2 pictures, suppodesly from Lautem fort but I wasn't sure, or are they? Do you happen to have other shots of the same Lautem fort? I was wondering if I coulod have some.

Thanks

Jose

Lefty E said...

Hi Jose

well, they certainly are from Lautem fort - though I have others which may ring more of a bell. I focussed on the fortified road part, as its so interesting.

If you go to my profile page you'll see find my email - send me an email and I'll send you some others.

LE

Anonymous said...

I have just returned from lautem after spending 3 weeks installing water supplies and have several photos of the Lautem village and fort ruins.